Fiordland

What to see

Milford Sound is the headline, a fiord of sheer cliffs and waterfalls reached by a long, scenic road from Te Anau. Doubtful Sound is larger, quieter and harder to reach, by boat across Lake Manapouri and then over a pass. The Kepler, Routeburn and Milford tracks are among the country's Great Walks. Te Anau itself sits on a lake at the park's edge.

• A Milford Sound boat cruise among the cliffs
• Doubtful Sound for a wilder, quieter fiord
• The Kepler Track, a loop from Te Anau
• The Te Anau glowworm caves

Getting around

Te Anau to Milford Sound is about 120 km but takes 2 to 2.5 hours each way on a slow, winding road through the mountains, so allow most of a day. Many people take a coach and cruise package from Te Anau or Queenstown instead of driving. There is no fuel between Te Anau and Milford, so fill up before you set out.

When to go

Summer has the best chance of settled weather and the longest days, and it is when the Great Walks are in season and need booking well ahead. That said, Milford is striking in the rain too, when the waterfalls multiply. Winter is quiet and can bring snow and road closures, and the Milford Road is prone to avalanche control closures.

Honest notes

It rains a lot here, often two hundred days a year, so come expecting wet weather rather than hoping to dodge it, and pack good rain gear. Sandflies are relentless at Milford and on the tracks, so bring strong repellent. The Milford Road can close at short notice in winter for avalanche risk, so check conditions before driving.

Costs and practical tips

A Milford Sound day cruise is around NZ$100, more for the larger Doubtful Sound trip, which takes most of a day because of the boat-and-bus transfers. Coach packages from Queenstown make a very long day, leaving early and returning late, so an overnight in Te Anau is gentler and lets you start the Milford drive in good morning light. There is no fuel and little phone signal on the Milford Road, so prepare before you set off.

• The drive itself is a highlight, with stops at Mirror Lakes, the Chasm and the Homer Tunnel
• Day walks like Key Summit off the Routeburn give a taste of the Great Walks without the overnight
• Te Anau has the supermarkets, fuel and last reliable services before Milford

Milford or Doubtful Sound

Milford is easier to reach and more dramatic in shape, with sheer walls and the Mitre Peak. Doubtful is larger, far quieter and feels more remote, reached only by crossing Lake Manapouri and a mountain pass, which costs more and takes longer. If you have one day, Milford is the practical choice; if you want solitude and have the time, Doubtful rewards it.

Good to know

Te Anau is the practical base, with the last supermarket, fuel and reliable services before the fiords. A car gives you the Milford drive at your own pace, but coach-and-cruise packages save the long, tiring round trip if you would rather not drive it. Bring waterproofs and warm layers whatever the season, and strong insect repellent for the sandflies. Tap water is safe and cards are accepted in town.