Wellington
Wellington is New Zealand's capital and its government and arts hub, y...
The Wellington region covers the compact capital at the southern tip of the North Island and the wine country of the Wairarapa over the hills to the east. Wellington is the seat of government and the cultural heart of the country, packed into a steep harbour basin. It is also the link between the islands, with the Cook Strait ferry crossing to the South Island from its harbour.
Te Papa, the national museum on the waterfront, is excellent and free. The Wellington Cable Car climbs to the Botanic Garden and a view over the city. The compact centre has a strong cafe and food scene. Over the Remutaka hill, the Wairarapa around Martinborough is a small but serious wine region, known for pinot noir.
Central Wellington is walkable and has good buses and trains, so you can manage without a car in the city. For the Wairarapa wineries you want a car or a tour, as Martinborough is about 1.5 hours from the city over the hill. The Cook Strait ferry to Picton takes around 3.5 hours and books out in summer, especially with a vehicle.
Summer and autumn are the calmest, which matters here because Wellington is genuinely windy, earning its nickname Windy Wellington. Spring can be blustery. The food and arts scene runs year round and is a good reason to visit in any season, weather aside.
An old narodnz forum thread compared grocery prices at the Wellington markets, and the takeaway was honest: the city markets are not always cheaper than the big supermarkets, and a basket of tomatoes, cucumber, potatoes and carrots can run around NZ$15. Eating out and accommodation in the capital are not cheap, so budget accordingly. The wind is real, so pack a windproof layer.
Te Papa and the Botanic Garden are free, which keeps a Wellington day affordable, and the Cable Car is only a few dollars each way. The city is small enough to walk, so you may not need a car at all unless you head to the Wairarapa. The Cook Strait ferry is the main cost to plan for: a foot passenger is cheap, but taking a car across to Picton runs well over NZ$200 in summer and books out, so reserve early.
Over the Remutaka hill, Martinborough is a compact wine village you can cycle around between cellar doors, and the wider Wairarapa has the Cape Palliser lighthouse and a seal colony at the bottom of the North Island. It makes a relaxed day trip or overnight from the city, best with your own car as public transport out there is limited.
Wellington is compact and walkable, with good buses and a suburban train network, so many visitors skip a rental car until they leave the city. The airport is close to the centre, about 15 minutes by car. The weather lives up to the windy reputation, so a windproof layer is worth packing in any season. Tap water is safe, cards are taken everywhere, and the cafe scene is one of the country's best.