Northland

What to see

The Bay of Islands around Paihia and Russell is the main draw, a scatter of 144 islands with boat trips, dolphins and the historic Waitangi Treaty Grounds. Cape Reinga at the top has a lighthouse and the meeting of two seas. The Waipoua Forest on the west coast holds Tāne Mahuta, the largest known kauri tree. Whangārei is the regional town and has a pretty waterfall.

• Bay of Islands boat trips from Paihia
• Waitangi Treaty Grounds, where New Zealand's founding document was signed in 1840
• Tāne Mahuta and the Waipoua kauri forest
• Cape Reinga lighthouse at the northern tip

Getting around

You need a car. From Auckland to Paihia is about 230 km and 3 to 3.5 hours. Cape Reinga is a further 210 km north of Paihia, roughly 3 hours each way, so it makes a long day trip or an overnight. The roads are sealed on the main routes but narrow and winding, and some side roads to remote beaches are gravel.

When to go

Northland is the warmest part of the country and good to visit much of the year. Summer is best for swimming and the boat trips, but it is also when New Zealanders flock here over the holidays, so book ahead. Winter is mild and green, with rain but rarely cold, and far fewer people.

Honest notes

To stop kauri dieback, a soil-borne disease killing the trees, you must clean your shoes at the wash stations before and after the Waipoua walks, and stay on the boardwalks. The Cape Reinga drive is long for a single sight, so combine it with the Te Paki sand dunes or 90 Mile Beach to make it worth the distance.

Costs and practical tips

A Bay of Islands boat trip to the Hole in the Rock or a dolphin cruise runs roughly NZ$100 to NZ$150 per adult, while the Waipoua kauri walks and the Cape Reinga lighthouse are free. The little passenger ferry between Paihia and historic Russell is cheap and saves a long drive around the inlet. Fuel and groceries cost a little more here than in Auckland, so a quick stock up before you leave the city helps.

• Russell, the country's first capital, is worth an afternoon for its old buildings and waterfront
• Drive 90 Mile Beach only with a suitable vehicle and tide knowledge, or take a tour bus
• The Hokianga Harbour on the west coast is quieter than the Bay of Islands and has big dunes

When to allow extra time

Cape Reinga is a full day from the Bay of Islands and back, so do not try to pair it with a long onward drive the same day. Many tours combine the cape, the Te Paki dunes for sandboarding and a stretch of 90 Mile Beach, which is the easiest way to see the top without driving the gravel and tidal sections yourself.

Good to know

Northland has no rail and limited buses, so a car is close to essential to see it properly. Fuel stations thin out the further north you go, so do not run the tank low past Kaitāia. Summer brings strong sun, so use sunscreen and a hat, and the surf beaches can have rips, so swim where it is patrolled. Tap water is safe in the towns, and cards are accepted at most places.