South Island
The South Island is bigger, wilder and far less populated than the North, with the Southern Alps running the length of its spine. This is where most people picture New Zealand: glaciers, fiords, turquoise lakes and empty roads. The trade off is distance and weather. You will drive further between towns and you should plan around rain on the West Coast and in Fiordland.
What to see
The big draws are Aoraki / Mount Cook and the Mackenzie lakes, the adventure towns of Queenstown and Wanaka, the fiords at Milford and Doubtful Sound, and the glaciers of the West Coast. Christchurch is the main city and a common arrival point. Kaikōura on the east coast is the spot for whales and seals.
- Milford Sound, the most photographed corner of Fiordland
- Lake Tekapo and Lake Pukaki, famously blue from glacial rock flour
- Franz Josef and Fox glaciers on the West Coast
- The Catlins in the far south for waterfalls and sea lions
Getting around
Driving is the way to do it. Christchurch to Queenstown is around 480 km and about 6 hours, and you will want longer to enjoy the route. Roads are sealed but narrow and winding through the mountains, and they close in snow over the higher passes in winter. Fuel up before remote stretches, as towns can be far apart. The TranzAlpine train from Christchurch to Greymouth is a scenic alternative across the Alps.
When to go
Summer, December to February, gives the best weather and the longest days for hiking and the Great Walks, but it is the busiest and dearest season. Autumn brings gold colours to Central Otago and Wanaka. Winter is ski season around Queenstown and Wanaka, with snow and ice on the roads. Spring can be unsettled but quiet.
Honest notes
Sandflies are a real nuisance on the West Coast and in Fiordland, so bring repellent. The West Coast is genuinely wet, with several metres of rain a year, so build in flexible days. Book the Milford Sound cruises, the Great Walks huts and Queenstown accommodation well ahead in summer, because they sell out.
Costs and practical tips
The South Island is where the big-ticket activities live, so set a budget. A Milford Sound cruise runs around NZ$100, a Queenstown bungy jump from about NZ$200, and a scenic flight or glacier heli-hike a good deal more. Against that, the scenery itself is free: the alpine day walks at Mount Cook, the Mackenzie lakes and the West Coast beaches cost nothing. Fuel is dearer in remote towns than in Christchurch or Queenstown.
- Carry chains or check road conditions in winter for the alpine passes
- The Great Walks (Routeburn, Kepler, Milford) need hut bookings months ahead for summer
- Many small West Coast towns have limited shops, so stock up in the larger centres
Suggested route
A classic loop starts in Christchurch, heads inland to Lake Tekapo and Aoraki / Mount Cook, drops to Wanaka and Queenstown, then runs out to Te Anau and Milford Sound before returning up the West Coast past the glaciers and over Arthur's Pass. Ten days does it without rushing; a fortnight lets you slow down and add Kaikōura or the Catlins.
Good to know
Distances feel longer than the map suggests because the roads wind through mountains, so plan shorter driving days than you would at home. Towns are small and far apart, so book fuel stops and meals into your day. The summer sun is strong, with a high UV index, so use sunscreen even on cool days. Tap water is safe, and most towns have a supermarket for self-catering, which keeps costs down.